Stone C. Lasley
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Rolex Submariner 5512

Make
Rolex
Reference
5512
Model
Submariner

1. General Overview

  • Model: Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
  • Production: 1959 – 1978
  • Movement: Chronometer-certified Caliber 1560 (early) → Caliber 1570 (late)
  • Case: 40 mm stainless steel Oyster, chronometer-rated, crown-guard case
  • Depth rating: 200 m = 660 ft
  • Distinct trait: COSC-certified version of the 5513; identical architecture but regulated and adjusted to chronometer standards.

2. Serial Number Ranges (Approx.)

Year Serial Range Dial Type
1959 – 1961 478xxx – 750xxx Gilt chapter ring, “meters first”
1962 – 1966 1.0 – 1.6 M Gilt open chapter, meters first
1967 – 1969 1.7 – 2.2 M Matte “meters first” transitional
1970 – 1973 2.2 – 3.2 M Matte “feet first” white print
1974 – 1978 3.2 – 5.0 M Late matte feet-first, final production

A 2.4–3.2 M example = early-70s matte feet-first dial period.

3. Case Components and Part Numbers

Component Part No. Notes
Middle case 5512 Chronometer-spec case; same profile as 5513.
Caseback 5512 (internal engraving) Inside stamped quarter/year, e.g., “III.71”.
Crown tube 24-7020 Twinlock system.
Crown 24-702 7 mm Twinlock; later 24-703 Triplock in service.
Caseback gasket 29-325 Standard Sub gasket.
Movement retaining clamp/screws 31-2080 / 31-2090 Standard set for Cal. 15xx.

4. Dial Variations

Era Type Distinguishing Traits
1959–1963 Gilt “Chapter-Ring” Gold text, meters first, glossy lacquer.
1963–1966 Gilt “Open” No chapter ring, larger coronet, glossy.
1967–1969 Transitional Matte Matte finish, meters first white text.
1970–1973 Matte “Feet First” 660 ft = 200 m, four-line chronometer text.
1974–1978 Late Matte Same layout, slight font tightening, “SWISS-T<25”.

All 5512 dials carry four lines:

Submariner

660 ft = 200 m

Superlative Chronometer

Officially Certified

5. Crystal and Bezel Details

Component Reference Description
Crystal 25-19 (Tropic 19) High-domed acrylic, no cyclops.
Crystal gasket 29-116 Tension ring gasket.
Bezel assembly 82-5513 / 82-1680 compatible Friction-fit bidirectional bezel.
Bezel insert (period) Fat-font silver print Early-70s examples use “Mark 2/3” inserts identical to 1680.
Bezel spring 68-5513 Shared part.

6. Bracelet and Endlink Details

Bracelet Period Endlink Notes
7206 1960s rivet-link 80 Early gilt era.
9315 1969–1975 280 Folded-link Oyster, correct for early-70s.
93150 1976 – onward 580 Solid-link service replacement.

7. Movement Details

Caliber Years Features
1560 1963 – 1965 19,800 A/h, free-sprung balance, non-hacking.
1570 (non-date) 1965 – 1978 19,800 A/h, Microstella balance, hacking after ~1971, Breguet overcoil, 26 jewels.

Chronometer certification indicated on dial and movement bridge (“Adjusted 5 positions and temperature”).

8. Component Sourcing Table

Component OEM Part No. Availability Trusted Sources
Tropic 19 crystal 25-19 NOS only Cousins UK, Ofrei, Rolex-certified watchmaker
Crown 24-702 / 703 24-702 (orig), 24-703 (service) Readily available Cousins UK, ChronoShop IT
Tube 24-7020 24-7020 Available Cousins UK
Caseback gasket 29-325 29-325 Available Cousins UK
Bezel insert Fat-Font n/a Vintage only HQ Milton, Bob’s Watches, Craft & Tailored
Bezel spring 68-5513 68-5513 Common Cousins UK
Dial (mat­te 4-line) n/a Vintage originals only Phillips Watches, Vintage Rolex Forum, Tropicalwatch.com
Hands (tritium) n/a Vintage only VRF, Rolex Passion Market, 10PastTen
Bracelet 9315/280 9315-280 Scarce HQ Milton, Phillips Parts, Craft & Tailored
Movement parts Cal. 1570 various Partially supplied Cousins UK, Ofrei, or Rolex-accredited watchmaker

9. Restoration Priorities

  1. Preserve original matte dial and tritium hands; never relume unless non-functional.
  2. Maintain factory chamfers and radial brushing.
  3. Use genuine Tropic 19 crystal; service replacements lower collector value.
  4. If movement bridges are replaced, retain original chronometer engraving.

1. Scarcity & Risk Matrix

Component Availability Counterfeit Risk Collector Impact Priority Notes
Dial (Matte 4-Line “Feet First”) Very Low Very High Critical 1 Most faked element. Verify printing alignment, serif shapes, and lacquer texture. Always request UV and macro photos.
Gilt Dials (pre-1967) Extremely Low Very High Critical 1 Prices reflect rarity; 95 % of “gilt” dials online are altered.
Original Tritium Hands Low High High 2 Many relumed or mismatched. Match patina to dial.
Bezel Insert (Fat-Font Silver) Low High High 2 Early “MK2/3” fonts widely reproduced. Study serif thickness and 10-marker spacing.
9315 Bracelet + 280 Endlinks Medium-Low Medium High 3 Genuine examples show stamped reference inside clasp and correct folded construction.
Case Middle (5512) Very Low (replacement impossible) Medium Critical 3 Avoid laser-re-engraved cases; inspect serials between lugs.
Tropic 19 Crystal (25-19) Medium Low Moderate 4 NOS exist; easy to authenticate. Avoid modern 19A low-domes for originality.
Crown 24-702 / Tube 24-7020 Medium Low Moderate 4 Service parts acceptable; little collector penalty.
Bezel Spring 68-5513 High Low Low 5 Standard part, still made.
Caseback Gasket 29-325 High Low Low 5 Modern replacement fine.
Movement Parts Cal. 1570 Medium Low–Medium Functional 6 Ensure genuine bridges if chronometer-engraved.
Bracelet 93150 / 580 Ends High Low Moderate 6 Acceptable service bracelet if 9315 unavailable.

2. Acquisition Order (High-Leverage First)

  1. Correct dial – hardest to source, most decisive for authenticity.
  2. Matching tritium hands – visual coherence; protect dial from mismatched lume.
  3. Bezel insert – drives aesthetic and resale value.
  4. Bracelet (9315 / 280) – secure period correctness early; prices rising.
  5. Crystal & crown – simpler replacements once core components secured.
  6. Movement and gaskets – standard service items; last step in mechanical restoration.

3. Verification Checklist

  • Dial: Inspect under loupe for crisp white text, clean edges, and tritium that fluoresces briefly under UV then fades.
  • Insert: Confirm metallic printing and silver tone, not bright white.
  • Bracelet: Check clasp code matches production quarter (e.g., “3/71”).
  • Movement: Chronometer bridge engraving must match serial range.
  • Case: Factory bevel geometry should be symmetric; avoid re-engraved lugs.