Stone C. Lasley
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Rolex Submariner 1680

Make
Rolex
Reference
1680
Model
Submariner

1. General Overview

  • Model: Submariner Date Ref. 1680
  • Production: circa 1969–1979
  • Movement: Rolex Caliber 1575 (date version of Cal. 1570, with hacking introduced ~1972)
  • Case material: Stainless steel, reference 5513/1680-type Oyster case (40 mm)
  • Depth rating: 660 ft = 200 m (earlier “Submariner” red text dials read “Submariner / 660ft = 200m”)

2. Serial Number Ranges (Approximate by Era)

Year Serial Range (approx.) Dial Type
1969 2.0–2.2 million Early Red Sub Mk I (“Meters first”)
1970 2.2–2.6 million Mk II–III Red
1971 2.6–3.0 million Mk III–IV Red
1972 3.0–3.3 million Mk V Red (hacking introduced)
1973 3.3–3.9 million Mk VI Red (last series)
1974–79 4.0–6.2 million White Submariner dials only

If your example is early 1970s with serial between 2.5 M–3.3 M, it should be a “Red Submariner” variant.

3. Case Components and Reference Numbers

Component Typical Part No. Notes
Middle case 1680 Same general case as 5513, drilled lug holes.
Caseback 1680 or 5513-style internal stamp Inner engraving: “1680” or “5513”, date-coded quarter/year (e.g., “II.71”).
Crown tube 24-7020 For Twinlock crown.
Crown 24-702 7 mm Twinlock. Later service replacements 24-703 (Triplock).
Case gasket (back) 29-325 Standard Sub caseback gasket.
Case clamps/screws 31-2080 / 31-2090 Movement retaining set.

4. Dial Variations (Red Submariner Series)

Mark Period Key Traits
Mk I 2.0–2.2 M (’69) “Meters first” (200 m = 660 ft), open 6s, closed 9s. Long coronet.
Mk II 2.2–2.45 M “Feet first” transition, open 6s, long “f.”
Mk III 2.45–2.7 M “Feet first”, narrower coronet.
Mk IV 2.7–3.0 M Cleaner font, fatter coronet.
Mk V 3.0–3.3 M “Open 6”, serifed font.
Mk VI 3.3–3.9 M Final Red dial; slightly brighter red text, “open 6.”
White Dial 4.0 M onward White “Submariner”, matte finish, no red.

All Red dials are tritium-marked “Swiss-T<25” at 6 o’clock.

5. Crystal Part Numbers

Type Reference Description
Cyclops acrylic (Superdome) 25-127 Original Tropic 127 dome with date magnifier (high-domed).
Service replacement 25-128 Lower profile later acrylic.
Gasket (crystal retaining) 29-116 Tension ring gasket beneath crystal.

6. Bezel and Insert Variants

Component Reference Details
Bezel assembly 82-1680 Bidirectional, friction type.
Insert (early) “Fat Font” MK 2/3 Serif numerals, tritium pearl.
Insert (mid) “Medium Font” Slightly slimmer font, still silver print.
Insert (service) “Thin Font” / Luminova pearl Post-1980s replacement.
Bezel spring 68-1680 Standard click spring.

Correct early insert should have silver open 6/9 numerals and a tritium pearl slightly off-white or creamy due to aging.

7. Bracelet and Endlink Details

Bracelet Reference Type Period Correct Endlinks
9315 Folded-link Oyster 1969–mid-1970s 280
93150 Solid-link Oyster Late 1970s 580
7206 Rivet Oyster (rare transition) Late 1960s only 80

If your watch is early 70s, 9315/280 is correct. Ensure the flip-lock clasp code matches period (e.g., “3/71”).

8. Movement Notes

  • Caliber: 1575 (date)
  • Jewels: 26
  • Beat rate: 19,800 A/h
  • Regulation: Microstella free-sprung balance
  • Rotor bearing: Perforated automatic bridge (full-rotor)
  • Key differences: Post-’72 examples have hacking seconds; pre-’72 do not.

9. Restoration Advice

  • Retain original case chamfers and brushing direction (radial on lugs).
  • Avoid polishing crown guards.
  • Re-lume only if necessary for legibility; original tritium patina is collector-critical.
  • Preserve period-correct Tropic 127 crystal and fat-font insert if possible.

Rolex–Tiffany & Co. co-signed dials appeared from roughly the late 1950s through the mid-1990s, with peak activity between the 1970s and mid-1980s.

Key points by era:

Period Context Models Commonly Seen
Late 1950s–1960s Early Tiffany-signed Rolex sold exclusively through the Tiffany & Co. flagship in New York. Dials hand-stamped locally by Tiffany. Datejust 1601, Explorer 1016, Air-King 5500
1970s Formal Rolex–Tiffany retail relationship. Tiffany received blank dials from Rolex, applied its own logo (black pad-print or lacquer stamp), then cased and sold them. Submariner 1680, GMT-Master 1675, Datejust 1603, Daytona 6263/6265
Early–Mid 1980s Continuation but quality control issues arose due to inconsistent stamping and warranty handling. Rolex began restricting co-branding. Submariner 16800, GMT-Master 16750, Datejust 16030
Circa 1990–1993 Relationship terminated. Rolex insisted all branding remain factory-controlled. Tiffany-signed dials ceased.

Authenticity criteria:

  • Double signature printed above 6 o’clock or occasionally below “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.
  • Font must align with correct period dial printing (e.g., matte red-text 1680 dials with small “Tiffany & Co.” serif font).
  • Dial printing must be on top of lacquer, not under it.
  • Service dials never bear the Tiffany stamp.

A Submariner 1680 “Tiffany & Co.” therefore would date approximately 1970–1976, matte red or early white dial period, with genuine examples extremely scarce due to Tiffany’s small volume and Rolex’s later destruction of leftover signed dials.

1680 COMEX

General Overview

  • COMEX-issued pieces produced circa 1977–1979.
  • Movement: Calibre 1575 (hacking seconds)
  • Case: 40 mm stainless steel, acrylic crystal
  • Bezel: Bidirectional early, unidirectional later; black aluminium insert
  • Water Resistance: 200 m / 660 ft
  • Bracelet: Oyster 9315 or 93150
  • Significance: One of the earliest dated COMEX Submariners. Links professional tool-watch design with saturation diving heritage.

Serial Numbers / Production Eras

Serial Range Years Notes
~5.40–5.50M 1978–1979 Late matte dial era; COMEX-issued units observed here.
  • Quantities: Not officially disclosed by Rolex. Estimated very limited.

External Components Breakdown

Component Specification Authenticity Notes
Case 40 mm Oystersteel Verify correct serial range; no HEV.
Caseback Engraved “ROLEX COMEX” + issue number Engraving font, depth, and spacing critical.
Bezel Black aluminium, period font Aftermarket inserts common.
Crystal Acrylic T-19 Replace only with OEM vintage parts.
Bracelet Oyster 9315→93150 Correct clasp codes for late 1970s.

Dial Variations

Dial Type Description Lume
COMEX logo matte COMEX print above 6 o’clock, tritium “T SWISS T<25” Tritium
No-logo COMEX Engraved back only Tritium
  • Authentic matte finish; glossy dials are service replacements.

Bezel / Insert Variants

  • Standard 1680 insert, serif font typical of period.
  • No special COMEX-exclusive bezels.

Hands, Movement & Technical Features

  • Hands: Mercedes set, matching lume tone
  • Movement: Calibre 1575, 19,800 vph, hacking seconds, date
  • No helium escape valve
  • Power Reserve: ~48 h

Part Numbers

  • Movement: 1575 (in-house)
  • Case & Bracelet: Standard 1680 components; COMEX engraving adds issuance mark, not unique PN.

Authentication & Restoration Checklist

  • Verify COMEX engraving and serial within 1978–79 range.
  • Dial printing and lume tone must match late-1970s matte format.
  • Preserve original acrylic crystal and bezel insert if possible.
  • Avoid polishing; retain factory chamfers.
  • Service every 4–6 years (functional use) or 6–8 years (stored).

Summary

The Rolex Submariner 1680 COMEX merges the first-date Submariner platform with professional COMEX issue provenance. Authentic examples combine matte tritium dials, engraved casebacks, and unmodified cases. Documentation and originality drive collector value.